Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Sipping Vino In Sonoma


This weekend we had an amazing time in ‘wine country.’ We were lucky enough to see the all areas of Napa County – Sonoma, Napa, Rutherford, Yountville, St Helena and all the way north to Calistoga.  We arrived at the Fairmont Sonoma on Thursday at noon, unfortunately empty handed as AA lost or bag.  However, we didn’t let this ruin or day. The hotel had arranged for a private car to pick us up at the hotel at 1pm and suggested 4 vineyards to see.  The concierge did a fabulous job of choosing a great mix of vineyards. 


The first one we visited was Annadel, which required an appointment.  It was well worth it - an amazing experience.  We sipped vino and talked with the owner for hours, walking the grounds, and learning a ton about the incredible history this winery has.  We also both learned more about wine during this stay than we have in seeing dozens of other wineries in a number of countries.   The owner purchased the place about 5 years ago – leaving the big city life behind for a quiet strip of Sonoma.  She and her husband have worked to restore much of it to its roots dating back over 130 years.

After a couple hours and a lot more than a few tastes of wine, we journeyed on to our next stop, Chateau St Jean.  This was a lot bigger place, and while it lacked the quaintness and history of Annadel, it still was a great experience.  Hundreds of acres of vines, flowers, gardens, quant sitting tables and pergolas were mixed in everywhere. The staff was extremely nice, even dipping into their private reserve to give us a few “freebie” tastes.  Given our long stays at these first two places, we only had time to stop at one more, Deerfield.  This again was a larger public winery, but its tasting room was set in a wine cave, whose walls were lined with dozens of barrels of vino.  Once you got to the back of the cave there were Tuscany-like stone walls, and a number of rustic wood tables and chairs to lounge in.  We closed this place down, sipping vino till about 5PM, until heading back to the hotel. 

We ate at our hotel’s signature Michelin Star restaurant called Sante.  Dinner started with a couple glasses of complimentary champagne (the hotel knew about our baggage trouble).  This was a nice gesture and was a great start to our meal.  The food was all very good; however, our beginning courses of “Adult Mac and Cheese” (lobster mac and cheese with black truffles and aged cheddar) and Roasted Scallops and Escargot were among our favorites.

Friday we woke up bright and early at 5am and got ready for our Napa Valley balloon ride.  We were a bit tired and it was a bit chilly, but the experience was amazing.  We were fortunate enough to ride in their newest balloon, the Fiesta Also, which travelled almost 3,000 feet high.  It was its second time up.  Ken, our pilot, told us that it was the “Cadillac” of balloons!   We could see miles of Napa Valley in all directions.  After the 2 hour ride we headed back to Domaine Chandon vineyard, where we had a beautiful brunch with mimosas and champagne!  .
 
We soon got back to the hotel and it was only 11am, but it felt like late afternoon.  We decided to take the rest of the day and enjoy the amazing hotel spa.  There’s only one way in and out of the indoor/outdoor spa which helps keep for a nice relaxing experience.  They have more than 5 indoor and outdoor mineral pools, spas, and heated baths.  All are co-ed so we were able to enjoy everything together, as opposed to many spas that are not comingled.  With such a long day of waking early, eating, and sipping cocktails, we slipped into bed for a 5pm nap….which lasted till the next morning.  It may sound boring, but it was the end to a perfect day.    

Saturday we had a lot of time to kill before heading to the city for a 5PM wedding.  We decided it would be cool to see the entire area, all the way north to Calistoga.  The area is quite easy to navigate and drive, it probably only took a little over an hour to drive to Calistoga, which is the northern most point of wine country.  We pulled off and took a short self guided tour of the CIA (Culinary Institute of America) which was in an amazing castle-like stone building, with interior winding staircases and a number of cooking antiques on display. They also have their own retail store that pretty much had any appliance and utensil you could image.  We also stopped at Old Faithful in Calistoga and viewed the property, which was full of goats, donkeys, and the geyser (of course).

We wanted to stop at one last winery before we made our way to the city.  One of the many great suggestions we got from Abi at Annadel winery on Thursday, was Turnbull.  We decided to stop here for a reserve tasting and take a peek at the grounds, which were full of beautifully thick rooted wisteria, which were already starting to bloom.  We exchanged restaurants with a lady working there – great Chicago spots for her local Valley favorites, and were on our way to the city. 

We have enough new winery and restaurant recommendations in the Napa Valley area for another much longer stay…and we cannot wait to return later this fall to see the grapes in harvest and the flowers in bloom.  We highly recommend visiting Sonoma Square, which is full of quant boutiques and some of the best restaurants in the county.  St Helena also has an amazing little town.  Until October…